Two sisters walk across England

Coty and Breanne's Walk Across England

2008-05-15T11:34:00.000-07:00

The Coast to Coast across northern England from St. Bees to Robin Hood's Bay is a 192 mile walk based off the path that Alfred Wainwright walked and wrote about in the '70's. Wainwright was an avid walker and writer and wanted to try to walk across England using only public right of ways. While not an official trail (Wainwright himself encourages people to make up their own ways of getting from one coast to the other), people come from all over to try it and it is considered one of the best long distance walks in the world.

So how, you ask, did this whole idea come about? Why would we want to walk practically 200 miles across England in almost non-stop rain? It all started my (Coty) first quarter in college. Being in a new place where I didn't know anyone or about anything equaled lots and lots of time on the computer. Which is how I stumbled across a web site about the Coast to Coast walk. I knew then that I wanted to try it and kept it in the back of my mind for three years. Then in my last year of school, after hearing from a friend who had just spent the fall in Ireland and another who had biked to Mexico, I decided that I was just going to do it. I graduated in June 2007 and a week later, there we were, Breanne (my sister) and I, riding a train from Manchester to St. Bees to start our adventure. I don't know why walking across a country appealed to me. I had been to England once before and loved the countryside. I also like to be outdoors and wanted to do something that would challenge me. And how many people can say they walked across a country?!

This blog is an online documentation of our trip. I've borrowed directly from journal entries and e-mails that I sent to people along the way (with some editing of course!). I have tried my best to condense each day into a readable length without compromising too much detail. Also, blogspot automatically scales down these pictures, but if you click on a photo, a larger version will show up for you to examine more closely if you so desire! And if you want to hear more about something in particular, just e-mail me!

Feel free to scroll down the page, or you can click the links below or on the sidebar to get to each day's individual entry (or if you just like pictures, each day has a link to more pics). Also, if you choose to go to each individual page, at the bottom the link "newer post" will take you to the previous day and "older post" will take you to the next day:

Day 0: Getting to St. Bees
Day 1: St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge
Day 2: Ennerdale Brige to Stonethwaite
Day 3: Stonethwaite to Grasmere
Day 4: Grasmere to Patterdale
Day 5: Patterdale to Shap
Day 6: Shap to Orton
Day 7: Orton to Kirkby Stephen
Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld/Muker
Day 9: Muker/Keld to Reeth
Day 10: Reeth to Richmond
Day 11: Richmond to Ingleby Cross
Day 12: Ingelby Cross to Clay Bank Top
Day 13: Clay Bank Top to Glaisedale
Day 14: Glaisedale Robin Hood's Bay
Day 15: Excursion to Whitby
EXTRA GOODIES!!

Day 0 : Getting to St. Bees! (June 23, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:33:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Tomlin Guest House, St. Bees
Miles walked: technically zero for the walk, unless you count all the walking in the airport, and to and from the guest house into town (1/2 each way, two times)

Eagerly waiting in the airport. Such energy!

Manchester Airport - waiting for the train to take us to St. Bees

So here we are waiting for our train. We arrived! A long day of travel complete with many hours of waiting. Four hours in Atlanta and now two in Manchester. This is what I get for being worried about having time to catch connections. Better early than late I guess. Last night I was up packing till 1:00 am and then got up at 3 am. And now with the time difference...yeah I've been up for about 24 hours! But here we are!! I had a little scare at the ATM because it wasn't accepting my card, but it turned out I could only ask for 100 Pounds at a time. Thank goodness it worked...we would have been in big trouble if it hadn't! Tomorrow we are going to start what I've had my mind to do since freshman year of college. And now the journey is on its way. I know its going to be tough, but that's part of the challenge, right?! Let's pray for some okay weather. Not rain the entire time! [hahaha..how I laugh at this comment now! If we only knew....]

Tomlin Guest House - 10:00 pm

Wow, its 10:00 and still really light out. Yes, we are far north, which would also explain the temperature. And I thought we were just getting really crappy weather in the '50s but then I looked in Stedman's [the guide book we used - which I would recommend although there were a couple parts that weren't too reliable. Some people took to calling it Steddy's book of lies....but apparently this summer he was coming through and making corrections for a new edition, so you may want to check that out if you're planning this trip] and the high in June and July is only in the '60s anyway. No wonder the English are so white. (Now I get where my complexion comes from!)

Waiting for the train in Carlysle
After waiting for the train, we got in ours, and it turned out we totally could have gotten on the 12:00 because it didn't matter the time you took the train. Live and learn I guess. The train ride was great. We rode from the airport to Manchester Piccadilly and then changed trains to get to Carlysle (which is actually northeast of St. Bees but it's still the easiest route to get there) and then another to St. Bees. Thank goodness for helpful train staff as our tickets were really confusing. I just loved watching the hillsides and all the sheep and the brick houses. It made me nostalgic for Belgium.

The train to St. Bees went down the coast of the Irish Sea (stormy and windy! The clouds hung so low; sometimes I felt like I could reach out and touch them - something we would get very acquainted with for the duration of the trip), and I am amazed at how they built those tracks. Sometimes it was going so slow around these windy hillsides and it seemed like we were going to fall into the ocean!

When we arrived in St. Bees we went to town and to the Post Office to get food for tomorrow. YAY - DIGESTIVE BISCUITS. The best cookie things ever. I know it sounds gross, but I got hooked on them when I was in Belgium and I just don't understand how they aren't sold in the United States.... I'm so stocking up on those when we go home! :-) The cash machine at the post office would only take 'link' debit cards...must be British...which worries me a lot, we need to find cash, but I was able to run my card as credit to pay for everything, so that's good news find that I can do that. I'll be happy when we can get some cash though.
We then walked down and found our guest house, which is by the start of the walk, but a little ways from the town. Irene, the caretaker, is super nice and got us situated. We then walked back into town (jees...shouldn't we be saving energy here!) to look for food, but it turns out there was this celebration happening with the students as everyone was dressed in suits and gowns, and nothing was available....so....grocery store meal! Walking back we detoured to the church and graveyard where there is a stone from the 10th century (although i couldn't find it). And then back to the B&B to watch some British 'Who Wants to be a Millionaire.' Tomorrow's the big day!
the statue dedicated to St. Bega
St. Bees is a really interesting town. Legend has it that an princess from Ireland (St. Bega) landed here somewhere between the 6th and 9th centuries to avoid an arranged marriage with a Norweigian prince and asked the man who owned the land if she could have some to set up a convent. He said if it snowed, she could...and it did. And so St. Bees came into existence.

will we be ready by tomorrow?!
Bre fell asleep early and just woke up thinking it was morning and started to get ready. I asked her what she was doing and told her it was ten at night. Time is all screwed up right now.

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Day 1 - St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (June 24, 2007

2008-05-15T11:31:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: The Cloggers B&B, Ennerdale Bridge
Distance walked: 14 1/2 miles

Eagerly posing at the start of the walk

We had breakfast at 8:00 and got down to the water around 9:00. Slightly raining - I guess a start that one should expect for England! (*note - I wasn't kidding here. We got rain EVERY single day. ) I guess Wainwright wanted to just kick us off with a bang because the hike started with a big climb up the hillside, looking over the Irish Sea, where we would follow for quite some time. Okay I just have to say there are these sheep that I swear look like pigs. I saw one in St. Bees and really thought it was one. When I exclaimed to Bre to 'look at that pig!,' she laughed at me and gave me a look of pity, saying, 'Coty, those are SHEEP.' I don't know if shearing does that to all sheep, but boy, these ones are very funky! (*note - I later read about these sheep. I can't remember their names, but they are commonly referred to as 'ugly sheep.' No kidding.) Not all the sheep are like that, but boy are there sheep! Sheep everywhere! And cows and even goats, or maybe they are just sheep with horns. I don't know.

Bre hanging out with the cows

So there we were walking the Coast to Coast! What are my emotions? Excitement, nervousness, adrenaline pumping, all in one. Right away we met this guy that everyone would all later call Mountain Goat because every day he would come up on you, chat for a bit, then hurry on, passing everyone else along the way. He passed us, and for the rest of the day we would see him a little way off in the distance. It was nice to get off on the start and meet someone. Just letting me know others are out there to be of help. Which is good because we needed it a couple of times. (more later..)

Dipping our feet and selecting our rocks that will journey with us

across the country to later be deposited in the North Sea!

So after leaving the seaside walk, - what beauty - green with the stone walls that I can't imagine building and the Irish Sea crashing upon the cliffs, we got to the part where we left for the towns of Moor Row and Cleater. Here we had our first mess up. After this part where we crossed the right hand gate Steddy's said to go down and go under an old railway. Well I thought that meant go down right after the gate. Nope, I just led us into a very very wet grassy place that completely soaked the bottom of our pants and soaked Bre's shoes. Great - we got back on the path and then saw the sign to go down. Note: don't leave path looking for other if one does not exist yet!

And so down to Sandey Pond which as far as I can tell, is a muddy bog and to this forest .... Well at this point we had our first serious map consultation. We chose to go on a path in the forest and realized it was a mistake. Luckily some people were approaching and we all consulted - a nice couple named Ken and Jane. [We ended up meeting up with them a lot more along the walk and they proved to be great walking buddies! It seemed like every time we were in a sticky situation, ah there Ken and Jane would round the corner and we would all figure it out together] Good thing we met them because there was a part where Stedman's was really not quite right in my opinion. What's wonderful about the walk was that whenever we needed help someone always showed up!

We could have used a couple more of these...

Past Cleator was Dent Hill. The big one. The place where things started hurting. Now this isn't just a hill. Its a hill that rises up, signaling the Lake District is near. And you go straight up. Apparently the British haven't heard of a thing called switchbacks! And with our packs, it definitely was not the fasted trek up a 'hill'. But many rests later we got to the top, meeting these two women along the way. (Sue and Helen...FUNNY women I'll tell you what. More on them later)

Dent Hill

View from the top of Dent Hill, looking back at the Irish Sea

Then came the downhill which is the absolute worst. My toes felt were pushed up to the end of shoes and killed! So as Dr. Suess wrote, what goes up must come down and down, and we arrived in a beautiful little valley that would lead us to Ennerdale Bridge. We walked through here with even the sun poking through at times. With all the sheep wandering (they're everywhere!). But this is also when the feet started hurting and the slight aches started creeping in. We got to the end of the path and sat down to rest, where I conveniently put my hands in a patch of stinging nettles. Then back up again and off to what we thought was Ennerdale Bridge. Luckily a car came beeping the horn and told us we needed to go the other way. Thank goodness for people!! And so we chugged into E.B. around 4:30, tired and sore. We rested a couple hours and then took a gaunt (I really should say hobble here) to The Shepherd's Arms for a bite to eat. And then back to the Cloggers and good night!

Down the other side. Leaving the sea and on to the lakes.

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Day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite (June 25, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:29:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Stonethwaite Farm, Stonethwaite
Distance Walked: 14 1/2 miles

This day would be if we were Frodo and Sam and were walking in Middle Earth, and we were approaching Mordor and the evil eye is doing everything in it's power to stop us but in the end we come out victorious.....

How do I feel? Yes, achy. Yes, my right foot is really bothering me, but other than that I feel good. I feel like I can accomplish something and do this walk, although at the beginning of the day I sure did feel the opposite. Last night the owners of the place we stayed at talked about going up into the Lake District and how the temperature can drop to freezing and how last year emergency people had to take a girl down who didn't dress for the weather. Ominous to say the least. We got up and it was pouring out and the wind was howling. I got this nervous feeling right at the beginning and Bre's back was really hurting her because of her pack. I tried to encourage her to leave it at the Cloggers and call Packhorse, a service that will carry your bags to each destination, but she thought she would be okay.

So we approached our first scenic point, Ennerdale Water, with the wind howling and rain blowing sideways. Luckily, just as everything was feeling quite gloomish, Mountain Goat showed up (his name is really David). His presence was a welcome comfort, just knowing others were out there. It's too bad the weather couldn't have been better around the water as the pictures I had seen of it seemed so lovely. Instead, we bundled up, hunkered down, and made it around the treacherous rocks to the other side, along the way passing a few people, including Ruth and Kimmie, the Australians. On the other side we met up with Ken and Jane, our faithful co-navigators. Ken gave me his walking pole to use for the day because of my foot. I just love all the friendship that we are striking up already.

Crossing a big field, I saw on Steddy's that there was supposed to be a field centre at the other side. Imagining a lodge with a warm fire and maybe a hot drink, I thought we could stop there to put some icy hot type ointment on my foot, but alas, it proved to be a cold looking barn, so we decided to try the youth hostel up ahead. Strike two...closed for renovation. And so we trekked on. Somehow Ken and Jane got ahead and at this point, and Bre decided she just couldn't carry her pack anymore, as it was hurting her back too much. Mind going in quick thinking mode, I ran up to Ken and Jane, gave them back their pole (just in case we didn't see them again). Then I put my essentials in Bre's pack and ran back to the field centre in hopes that someone would be around. I knocked on the door, but the woman who answered might as well not have been there. What a B*!?! I do not recommend that place to anyone. She was mean and lacked all empathy. I explained to her my situation, asking if maybe I could leave my bag there and have Packhorse pick it up. She pointed me to the pay phone and wouldn't let me know whether anyone would be around or not for somebody to pick up my bag. So I went and called (thank goodness I had coins. I doubt that woman would have lent me any) and got a hold of Packhorse. This woman, unlike the other, was so friendly and accommodating (We actually got on a first name basis for the rest of the walk, and it even got to the point that I didn't even have to say who I was! She just recognized my voice. Or maybe the American accent...) They normally didn't pick up around that area, but she worked with me and said they could pick it up tomorrow. So then I went back to that awful woman and she was like, "put the bag in the barn." Argh. Placing it there, re-calling Packhorse to let them know where they could find it, I crossed my fingers and set off, praying that I would see my bag again. Then, hoping that maybe the third time would be the charm, I asked the woman if she could maybe give me ride up the road back to Breanne, and she kind of started closing her door and said, "I'm not really able to do that." What a mean person. arrrhrhr...it makes my blood boil just thinking about her.

Baa baa black sheep have you any wool?... sooo many sheep

So then I went up the road, and the guys working at the Youth Hostel (which was closed for renovation) were in their cars having lunch. So I approached them and these two warm, nice men agreed to give me a ride. Bless them. They were so nice and giving, not like that woman who couldn't even give me her phone number to the place. So then we drove up the road and kept going and going, asking people if they'd seen Bre but no one had. Finally, we were getting to the end of the road and these guys had seen her, but she'd gone up ahead. Phew. She had made it almost the whole way up the road while I was gone. Jeez! She can walk if she wants to! So I said a HUGE thank you to them.(THANK YOU THANK YOU!) and worked my way up the path to Black Sail Youth Hostel, the most remote hostel in all of England. It is at the foot of the peaks of the Lake District, and there is no road that goes to it (in other words, no cars). It was such a welcome site, and inside was a cozy room and some fresh baked banana bread and tea. And there, at Black Sail, all the sudden it seemed like everyone doing the walk came together and gathered. Taking a lunch break, sharing stories from the first two days, commiserating with others about various aches and pains. So wonderful! It was also here that our little camp formed, the navigators, Ken and Jane; the two Australian women, Ruth and Kimmie, and this couple that was only doing the walk halfway. Ruth is also having the same foot issue as me, which in its own twisted way is a comfort!

We made it to Black Sail!!

So off our little company took trying to navigate to and up Loft Beck. I think it was here that all the camaraderie developed between us all because we all encouraged each other up and just the presence of everyone made it much easier. It was by far one of me steepest climbs I've ever done. But we were all together and we all did it and the top was amazing. Beautiful views the surrounding peaks and lakes in little nooks and valleys below. And there was this patch of sunlight just in this one spot hitting the water back where we had just come. Wow. And then up high we were walking and I just started smiling and laughing because we had made it. I had got through the biggest ordeal. So then our group continued on, heading down to Honister slate mine which was actually really cool to see all the slate. Enormous slabs of slate. Again, here was downhill, which again killed! And it continued to be downhill the rest of the way, but thank goodness, Ken gave me his trekking pole again which I think I used a little to much because now my leg thigh muscle is feeling like it's pulled.

Climbing up, up, up Loft Beck... the picture doesn't really do it justice

So there we came to Borrowdale Valley

which is made up of three villages, Longthwaite, Rosthwaite, and Stonethwaite. Unfortunately for today, we were staying in Stonethwaite which meant a longer walk, but tomorrow that means we cut off a couple of miles! We are staying at a little sheep farm (Stonethwaite farm) which is quite cozy, but no TV :( (can i help it if I want to lie on the bed after walking all day and watch Britcoms?!)
Tomorrow on to Grasmere!

MORE PICTURES FROM DAY 2!

Day 3: Stonethwaite to Grasmere (June 26, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:28:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Butharlip Howe Youth Hostel, Grasmere
Distance walked: 9.5 miles

The beauty of the Lake District

How do I feel? Well other than my foot, I feel great. We are in the nice little town of Grasmere, where William Wordsworth lived. It's very touristy and I've bought some postcards to send to people. It's been nice to get the afternoon to walk around and do the touristy thing for a bit. We got coffee and hot chocolate at a fancy little cafe and ate great food (lots of pasta for me) at a fancy looking pub (there's not really any place that isn't fancy in this town) where I talked to a woman who was doing the walk east to west. She is from California and it is her third time doing it. Dedicated I'll say!

On the Way - looking up toward Greenup Gill

Today was fairly straightforward climb up Greenup Gill to Lining Crag and Greenup Edge (Yes, it was very green!) and then down the other side into Grasmere. We got our daily greeting by Mountain Goat before he hopped along past us. Sadly, today was our last day with him as he continued on to Patterdale today without stopping in Grasmere. Soon all of our schedules will become different and we will have to say goodbye to people, but hopefully meet others! So up and up we went. The walk was shorter, but the climb was longer and steeper than the day before, although the path was fairly straight forward. Well, for the most part...Breanne is a good navigator! With her leading the way we made it up and through a part that was a little unclear (good ole' Stedman)...she just kept looking for cairns instead of consulting the book's bad map. The Australians and Mountain Goat actually got lost and were able to get back on the right track because they saw her walking down the path in the valley below! Yay! I passed a few people doing the walk from East to West, it was encouraging to see that indeed, they had made it this far and I can make it too.

East to Westers took this one, as Bre navigated on ahead

Today I was really thirsty the whole day and drank the entire water bottle. I wonder if it has to do with the bloody nose I got last night.... I'm also seeing more sheep than I have ever seen in my life. They are EVERYWHERE. And I'm continually amazed at the stone walls that are all around, even up in the steepest parts. I can't even imagine building those. It's amazing what people can do. Tomorrow: Off to Patterdale!

happy walkers...with stone walls in the background

MORE PICTURES FROM DAY 3!

Day 4: Grasmere to Patterdale (June 27, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:27:00.001-07:00

Accommodation: Greenbank Farm, Patterdale
Distance Walked: 10 miles

How do I feel? Better and better. I'm no longer achy and my foot didn't really give me a problem today, although it is starting to hurt a bit now and my left knee is hurting which I hope will pass. It seems as if it's not one thing it's another. Today was really good. We decided to start off a little later than usual (around 10:00 although I think it was a little closer to 11:00 when we actually set out) as the walk wasn't supposed to be that long and we heard it was supposed to clear up in the afternoon. However, when we started out it was a complete downpour and we could only cross our fingers that it would clear up later. We also had some trouble getting out of Grasmere as Steddy wasn't very clear, so after wandering around somewhat randomly, we finally spotted people with backpacks which meant one thing: fellow Coast-to-Coasters. We ended up meeting with this guy who was named Steve, and spent the rest of the day hiking with him. It's always enjoyable to hike with others and chat and get to know each other.

Looking up Grisdale Tarn

Right off the bat we made our ascent up Grisdale Tarn. It was quite the ascent; not as steep as the others but long and just steep enough to wear on you. I also found myself getting more thirsty and our water was almost out by the top. Luckily the rain did stop, and it did start to clear up, with the sun actually poking through quite a bit. On the way up there were some great waterfalls and we were able o see St. Sundays Crag, Helvellyn and Striding Edge. (high route peaks that one can climb to if they so desire) I must admit that they seemed much less daunting than what I imagined and I was halfway tempted to try one, except then a little reminder from my foot or knee would pull me back to reality! But even so, our route was amazing, with the views of the valleys and the descent to Patterdale, going through a really nice place of farms and a river, all being picturesque. And cows - after seeing all the sheep, I'll admit that seeing the cows threw me off! We met up with the really nice couple who are only doing the walk halfway and ate lunch with them in the brief period of sunshine . I'll have to say that something about the sun and sitting there with the waterfalls and chatting, everything just seemed so perfect.

wow, it seems so ancient

Tonight in Patterdale, we are staying at Greenbank Farm, a working sheep farm, and the couple are the nicest people ever. Kimmi and Ruth are here and it is just fun hanging out with them. We ended up meeting at the White Lion pub and having dinner and tomorrow Kimmi and I are going to do the hike while Ruth and Bre take the boat down Ullswater and then catch the bus. Ruth is having problems with her foot and Bre is taking a rest day so it all works out perfect :) :)

The village of Patterdale with sheep farms all around

Tomorrow I just hope the weather isn't too bad and that my knee does all right. Please hold up! It's also the last day in the Lakes. Wow - they are beautiful and I will miss them. It seems that at this point people's schedules start getting different and we will all be soon parting ways. Its sad to think that the camaraderie that's built up so quickly, that close feeling that we got because we all started the walk in all our unknowing - its going to come to an end. And then a new stage will begin and hopefully new faces!

Day five here we come.

Remember this for tomorrow........

MORE PHOTOS OF DAY 4!

Day 5: Patterdale to Shap (June 28, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:27:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Fell House (a.k.a. the lonely place with no heat or hot water)
Distance walked: 17 miles

Walking buddies for a day

How do I feel? A bit tired and worried about my knee - now that there won't be so much up and down I hope it does better. My foot is doing great though! Back at the farm last night, I mentioned to the guy that my foot was bothering me and he said fresh sheep wool would do the trick. And what did I find sitting on top of my boots this morning?! None other than a freshly sheared batch of sheep wool! And it's seemed to have done the trick. [And it did too. For the rest of the trip I didn't have a problem and I actually left it sticking to my socks the whole time... gross I know, but what can I say?!] It's also a wonderful cushion and even a little nice warmth without sweat!

one of my socks at the end of the walk....
I know, pretty gross - but it worked!

Today Kimmi and I walked from Patterdale to Shap while Ruth and Breanne took the ferry down Ullswater and then the bus to Shap. I'm glad it worked out that way as I really didn't want to tackle the long 17 miles in tricky navigation by myself. And I'm so glad that we met those two and got to know them. Kimmi was so much fun to walk with, and we had a fun time finding humorous ways to liven up the walk. Like posing as a dead red squirrel or pretending to run away from bulls.

Looking back at Patterdale and Ullswater...and Bre and Ruth

We started off hiking up out of Patterdale and it wasn't half bad out with sun coming and going. So we climbed up and up to Angletarn where the wind started howling, but at least then it was still pretty nice out although we could see the dark clouds coming up on the horizon. Then we went over the tarn and came to this little dip and lake that had these islands and it just looked like a little oasis with palm trees. I joked that we had been transported to the tropics (without the heat though). It was here that we met up with 5 guys who were camping the C2C and were trying to head all the way to Orton by tonight. I don't know if they ever made it because we kept up with them pretty much the whole day and saw them at the co-op in Shap when it was POURING down rain around 4:30. But on we went, the wind blowing ever harder and finally, what seemed inevitable, the rain. As we headed up to Kidsty Pike it was blowing sideways, practically knocking us over, and I'll have to admit, there is something about that kind of weather that makes it exciting and gets the adrenalin going. I'm glad I had Kimmi with me too because not only was it pretty lonely feeling way up there, but the navigation was a bit tricky, and there were a couple of spots we kind of had to backtrack. But we made it to the top of Kidsty Pike, our highest point of the walk, but didn't stay long to reflect, but instead quickly started heading down because the temperature was very cold with all that wind and rain. While doing this Kimmi saw some deer bounding up ahead trying to cross and they came over right in front of us. I wonder how they are able to bound their ways up and down those hillsides. It really is amazing. We really don't use our bodies anymore - I just think how in the past people would do these walks from village to village over the fells as day walks. They would do it all the time - and I think people still do it today - but for the most part, we just use cars. All these paths that we are following on this walk are those old trails that people walked to get village to village. Once we got out of the Lakes, there would be signs on the paths, pointing down different routes saying "this way to such and such."

Almost to the top - Kidsty Pike - the highest point of the walk

Coming down we met these wonderful guys who all had worked together at a glass factory outside Manchester and once a month they all go on these hikes. And they were all so classically British! They were telling us about the town that used to be where the Hayes water Resevoir is and the road on the other side that was called Coffin Road because they would carry people who died along the road and over to Shap. And one of the guys, Frank, took our picture because he documents and writes about all their walks - this one being the 108th!! So then we finally made it down and started the trek around the Hayeswater saying goodbye to the Lake District. This is where my knee and upper thigh started hurting, and I just had to grit and bear it for the rest of the walk around the lake and then through fields into Shap, where we arrived as it started a complete downpour that really was quite cold! I had to have a hot chocolate to get the chills out as our B&B, the Fell house, had no hot water and it was FREEZING - and their website made it look all nice and fancy. Instead it just felt lonely and cold. All of Shap really. It could have been the nasty weather though.

But anyway - Stedman really made this section after the Lakes to be a lot worse than it was. We actually had some fun. I pretended to be a dead squirrel in the middle of the road, Kimmi pretended to run away from a bull, and we joked about it being kind of like a treasure hunt trying to find our way around the fields. "Cross the fence look diagonally and spot the grove of trees. head there and turn right...etc.. etc.." Also little signs started popping up on the footpath saying "Discover Eden." Hmmm... I'm still looking I guess. I wonder if we will ever discover it?

Dangerous water?!?

Oh no! Not careful enough

The bull is charging..aaah!

When we reached Shap Abbey, an old abbey that was destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII, it started to POUR. The only thing we could do was put on our raincoats and trudge on, reaching Shap around 5:00. Arriving soaking wet, I got changed (no hot water or heat..aaah!) and Bre and I met Kimmi and Ruth for dinner at the Kings Arms. It was bittersweet as this was our parting of ways. They are going to do a 21 mile walk tomorrow where we were splitting it into 2 days. I promised Kimmie I would think of her as I'm eating my homemade chocolate cake in Orton (where we are stopping) while they are trudging on. All the more power to them, but I think I'll have my cake thank you very much. But they have been such a good company these past few days and I won't forget them. Perhaps someday we will meet again. Maybe for another trek somewhere.

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 5!

Day 6: Shap to Orton (June 29, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:26:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Mostyn House, Orton
Distance Walked: 8 miles

Sleepy Bre.

Today we were only going to Orton - 8 miles. but I'll have to admit it seemed like the longest walk for me and it wasn't until we had almost arrived that I really felt in the groove. I was really tired - maybe from the 17 mile walk the day before, but the walk was also just kind of non-eventful. The only thing that kept me going was the thought of eating chocolate cake at the chocolate factory! The most exciting thing, other than the mysterious "Discover Eden" sign posts, was the limekiln areas we came across, but it just seemed kind of lonely today. I can see how coming from the Lake District one can be really disappointed. But I think we have some neat things coming up - Dales and Moors, and I'm also taking Kimmi's lead and trying to be humorous.

I'm looking, I'm looking! Where is it?

We got to Orton really early - around 12:30 and went straight to Kendall's chocolate factory - and I'll tell you - it was the BEST cake I have ever eaten in my life! Homemade chocolate cake with homemade ice cream. Perhaps this was the Eden I was looking for. I realized I haven't had any sweet things this trip and I was craving it today! A little boost for the next leg. We also passed our 1/3 of the walk done mark! 2/3 of the way to go!

This is for you Kimmi!
The best chocolate cake EVER.

After eating we had the afternoon to just hang out, so we were sitting in the town square, enjoying the patches of sun, when I hear this curious sound of sheep "baaing." Was I imagining it? But then it kept getting louder and louder and all the sudden, a herd of sheep rounded the corner. A sheep drive through town!! It was great! Ooh . I haven't mentioned bogs. Okay, Stedman writes about places being boggy but let me tell you - I think I've mastered the art of crossing them. The key is not to press down hard, just gently put your foot down evenly and then bring it back up - because if you don't your shoe will be covered in mud, and most likely your pants too!

Enjoying the afternoon

Tonight we had a wonderful time at the pub, which was probably called the Kings Arms or something...we're finding that all the pubs are either called the Kings Arms or the Black Bull with an occasional Kings Head. [It was actually called the George Hotel and pub. Hey it was named after a King so I was close!] We went in to have dinner and then Sue and Helen - the GPS navigators that we have been seeing on the walk, always diligently consulting the GPS, came in and then Ken and Jane arrived. We all just had a great time eating and talking and Sue and Helen just cracked me up! They decided to do the walk after seeing a program on these people who walked 500 miles to loose weight. They decided why not! They are such an inspiration and just hearing their stories about their time on the path made me laugh and light up a little bit. Like apparently Sue fell in a stream today and was yelling at Helen to pull her out. Oh we were all just cracking up. Tomorrow off to Kirkby Stephen!

(NO MORE PHOTOS FROM THIS DAY...)

Day 7: Orton to Kirkby Stephen (June 30, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:25:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Redmayne House, Kirkby Stephen (pronounced Kirby)
Distance walked: 13 miles

~Halfway through the walk, day-wise~

Famous signpost in Kirkby Stephen,
measuring distance in furlongs

Today was a pretty straightforward day, 11 miles to Kirkby Stephen. If Kidsty Pike was the day for wind, today was the day for rain. THE ENTIRE DAY it kind of lightly rained, slowly soaking our rain gear, and by the end it was a complete downpour! I keep thinking about that postcard for the Coast 2 Coast we see in the stores that shows just about every kind of weather possible. Yep, that’s the Coast to Coast! I could use a bit more sun though. Southeast of here, it is flooding all over, and I hope the rain stops soon or else we might be under water!

Tackling the muddy ground

We started off heading towards Knott Lane to get back on the trail and just as we found it, around the corner comes Jane and Ken. We ended up walking with them the entire way which was really nice to have the company. Jane is fun to talk to and Ken can add some great humor. I told them I had fallen for the little lambs and Ken proceeded to name off all sorts of lamb dishes. Poor little ones. So on we went over moorland which was a bit cumbersome. After a trek through muddy cow-stamped areas, some road, and more moorland, we reached more fields - I think I have going up and over stiles down to an art! Oh! - We finally made it to the valley of Eden! I’ve discovered it! Apparently, it is the name for the area we are in. Clever advertising there.

We saw the Severals Village settlement which is considered to be one of the most important prehistoric sites in Britain. (at least according to Steddy) I thought was neat even though all you could make out was some moved around areas of ground and stone. Then down into a little ravine and back up to see the Giants Graves, long mounds which look like huge graves and are speculated to be prehistoric rabbit enclosures......hmm....

Around here it really started to pour and I went and stuck my hand in nettles again. With that we shuffled off to Kirkby Stephen drenched to the bone. But the Redmayne House, our B & B is so cool! It has this old Victorian toilet! And has 5 floors with all this old furniture - obviously quite the home for its time - Georgian apparently - and now to keep it, its become a B & B. We also arrived with a note from Ruth and Kimmi, who stayed here last night.

The Victorian Loo -- by far the oldest I've ever sat on!

So English

Kirkby Stephen was a nice little town, and after the downpour, it actually cleared up and we took a nice stroll around. I visited the old church, St. Hedda, with lots of old relics and a stone called the Loki Stone, a Viking stone from the 8th century depicting the Norse god, Loki. I also broke down and bought a trekking pole. While my foot problems had gone away, my knee was still acting up now and then.

St. Hedda's Church and the Loki Stone

Hanging out in Kirby Stephen
the sun out and even a double rainbow

Tomorrow up to Nine Standards. I hope its not too horrible weather. And Bre is taking another day off so I’ll be walking alone. I just hope that maybe I’ll run into someone I can follow. Its funny how we walk and walk and the feelings of overcoming something happens during that time - and then reaching the destination there is this sense of euphoria - this happiness and relaxed state and ease. I love it.

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 7!

Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld/Muker (July 1, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:24:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Swale Farm
Distance walked: 13 miles

Evidence of the solitary walk up to Nine Standards

All I can say is thank goodness for the trekking pole!!... I finished today and I really felt like I could keep going for awhile except for the DOWNPOUR rain that started at the end of the walk. I really don’t think we are going to have one good weather day here. Today was my first day walking all by myself and I was nervous and not sure how it was going to go, but it was actually really quite nice having that solitude. I got going around 8:45, and kind of took my time walking out of Kirkby Stephen, then heading up to the Nine Standards. I just wanted to keep on my map and enjoy myself. The Nine Standards are these nine pillars of stone on the top of a hillside that kind of ominously look over the horizon. No one really knows why they were built, but one theory says that they could have been used as decoys to scare of Scottish invaders from the north. I guess they look a little like an army of giants.....

Looking back on the road left behind

And forward to the road ahead

So up I went, and came to this point where there was a sign for public land leeways, one going off and one straight ahead. I thought this was where the trail to the left split that I was supposed to take and went off. And even though there were no cairns or sheep fold, it wasn’t until I was shoe deep in muck that I thought I might be wrong and turned back (although as it turns out the bog was much worse on the correct path on the way down!) So I turned around and sure enough a little bit up was a clear sign for the Coast to Coast. This is one place Steddy needs to be a little more clear on! So up I went and looking down I saw a couple of people doing the same thing I did! I tried to whistle and wave to them but after several minutes of failing to get their attention I decided to just keep going.

The right C2C sign

I made it up to Nine Standards and was able to have them to myself for 10 minutes or so, having some lunch before a whole herd of people arrived - a couple who I ended up walking with more later on, a big group of rowdy older men somewhere in Yorkshire that had such thick accents I couldn’t understand a word of what they were saying, and a younger group of three. By the way, today we crossed into Yorkshire from Cumbria!

Where's Coty?!

On the way down we all sort of followed each other as we all played leap frog through the peat bogs. Wow - okay now I know what they mean by boggy. I put my trekking pole into one and it sunk 1/3 of the way up. And then another one I stepped in and went in past my shoe and had to pull myself out! The whole way down was like this and after awhile I think the fun had worn off and I just wanted to get out of it! I see how in, I think the Hound of the Baskervilles, the villain gets caught in a bog. Finally we did get off the hillside. At this time, most everyone else stopped for lunch, but I decided to keep going.

The art of bog jumping

But going didn’t get much easier. All the rain had made everything very wet and I had to jump across streams and through grass and my shoes were soaked. I made it to a farm called Ravenseat which advertised for drinks and homemade scones and I was so tempted to stop, but I also wanted to try and miss the rain that seemed to be looming in the distance. But alas, after a few fields there were some sprinkles and then I heard this rumbling and couldn’t figure out what it was. Then all the sudden there was a big boom and crack, and it dawned on me....I’m in the middle of a thunderstorm. So there I was walking in the middle of a wet open field on a hillside with a metal trekking pole in a thunder and lightning storm. This went against everything my childhood safety training taught me, and by then I was having visions of me getting struck by lightning, so I just quickened my pace and tried to get out of there. But then the rain really started pouring and I gave in and put on the rain pants, which I’ll have to say, kept me much happier than if I hadn’t put them on because the rain just kept getting heavier and heavier as I descended to the road to Keld. I had the choice to either continue on the trail or take the road, and wanting to see the waterfall, I took the road. However, the waterfall was falling brown water because of the heavy rain. Still neat though! The descent to Keld brought me into Swaledale Valley, which when the sun came out later in the evening was so beautiful. I can see why James Herriot would love this valley so much.

If you ever feel lost........

.....just trust the animals to point you in the right direction!

But anyway, arriving in Keld at around 3:00 I called Swale Farm, and then, feeling a little awkward, waited in the phone booth for a ride into Muker. I’ll tell you, arriving soaked it was wonderful to get a nice shower in a great room that was en suite. I think this was our favorite place - very cozy. Also, apparently James Herriot’s favorite village was Muker! Later in the day the clouds cleared, and we were able to walk around the little village and see the beauty of the area with warmth and light. Today was a day of walking with new people. A different feeling from before but new adventures for the future.

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 8!

Day 9: Muker/Keld to Reeth (July 2, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:23:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Hilary House, Reeth (with a talking parrot!)
Distance walked: 9 miles

Muker to Reeth - the river walk

How do I feel? Good - not really sore - I think I’m getting a blister on my right back of my foot so I’m putting Moleskin on it and trying to pay attention to how I’m walking. I just hope it doesn’t get bad. My trekking pole is really helping though - definitely a good buy.

Today we decided to take the lower valley alternative route as we were already in Muker and we could pick up the trail just across the way. I started in rain pants, but as it turned out it always looked like the clouds were coming in but they always ended up skirting the valley and it ended up being a pretty decent day! Of course the day I am prepared for rain, it doesn’t really do it. We started off walking by the river and even though I did miss Crackpot Hall on the high route, it was really pleasant. A nice stroll along the river, seeing more rabbits than I’ve ever seen in my life. Stedman wasn’t lying when he said it was a rabbit metropolis here. At Gunnerside, the trail went up and we walked up top along the moors. It was quite desolate and even the little hamlets we came to seemed quiet, deserted, and cold, remnants of the old mining life that is now gone. I was glad when we started to go back down in the valley, but somewhere along the way we did something wrong because we ended up in a sheep field with no path or outlet. All the sheep were just kind of looking at us like 'what are these two idiots doing?' We finally just had to climb the stone wall which I wish I got a picture of!! I had to be really careful as I could just see myself knocking down the whole wall! But somehow we managed to get down to a farm and then the road and walked on to Healaugh. I have no idea what we did, but this guy (Ron), who we have stayed with at the same B&B the past two nights, did the high route and somehow came down at a weird place too. Stedman must have been getting a little tired around here or something.

Where was this sign when we needed it?!

After Healaugh we had a nice lunch and then back along the river to Reeth, arriving here around 1:30. And now I have spent a lovely afternoon in the square enjoying the sun - some school kids playing soccer and now a couple of little kids on their bikes. The sun is shining, birds are chirping, cows are mooing, sheep are baaing, and here I am in this lovely valley of Swaledale. If only the rest of the walk could be this nice. I wonder how Ruth and Kimmi are, and Ken and Jane, and Sue and Helen? We’re all just separated by a few miles but still so far away. That's one thing I've noticed. Even though each day is only separated by an average of 10-15 miles, nothing in a car ride, it really does feel like a completely different environment. Different surroundings, different geology, different people. Maybe if I decided to walk across Montana, I'd feel the same way, but it's different here. In Montana you can drive a hundred miles and everything still looks and feels the same. It's not like that here.

The ever-changing countryside

Reeth - BBC filmed here for their
James Herriot's All Things Great and Small series

Tomorrow is supposed to be an easy day, but I find the days that are supposed to be easy sometimes feel the longest - maybe because I have it in my brain that it is going to be short , so I’m not prepared for a day walk.. Tomorrow we get to see Richmond Castle! Oh yeah, the people at Packhorse (the ones who have been picking up my bag everyday) know me just be voice now. I don't even have to say who I am. I guess it could have something to do with my accent, but there must be other Americans using the service too....

Help! - I'm stuck!
These paths through the stone walls were TINY...hobbits built these for sure.

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 9!

Day 10: Reeth to Richmond (July 3, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:22:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Emmanuel Guest House, Richmond
Distance Walked: 10 1/2 miles

Remnants of the past - the ruins of Richmond Castle

How do I feel? The sun is out! I'm sitting on a bench inside the grounds of Richmond Castle, built by Alan the Red in 1071. Wow, Alan the Red walked these grounds. Who else has? How many great gatherings? It's like if you listen hard enough you can hear it. To be one of these stones.... Apparently Richmond and the surrounding area was given to Alan by his uncle, none other than William the Conqueror. The castle was built on the top of a hill to act as a lookout and protector from, once again, invading Scots from the north. But back to the walk:

Today my feet hurt. It's like they need a good long stretch out, almost like they are crunched up. They will pop around if I flex and stretch them. I just hope they aren't to bad for tomorrow. I think I'm hyping myself up to much for this 24 mile walk. Maybe that's good. Maybe it won't be as hard then.....

Once again, today we started off in full rain regalia, as when we woke up it was pouring out. Hilary House was nice, and we got to hear some of Del, the talking parrot, this morning. Ron, the man that we have seem to keep running into, was staying at the place too, and since we were all heading off at the same time, we ended up walking together. It started as another walk through the Swale Valley and then through some more muddy farmland. All this rain is turning everything into muck! We then went through towns of Marrick and Marske, walking through some woods up the Nun's stairs - named for the nuns who built them (375 steps) when they lived in the Priory nearby. They were slippery!!

up the nun's steps we go!

We then went up to Applegarth Scar where we ran into that couple with the packhorse woman. She just goes and goes! Today really was an off and on coat day, we would put them on and take them off and put them on. The weather gods just couldn't decide! Then, right after Applegarth Scar, we entered Whitecliff Wood which was perfect because the rain shower finally started to hit and these particular woods were so dense that the rain barely came through. The same could be said for the sky - it was dark! When we came out the rain had come and gone, the sky was blue, and we could see Richmond with the castle and its flag blowing in the wind. What a great site! My feet were really hurting and it was a blessing to get into town, although Steddy once again led us astray and put our B & B in the wrong place. So instead we went to a library and used the Internet for an hour, mailed out another mass e-mail, and got directions to the Emmanuel Guest House. We got there just as they were pulling in (2:30) and settled in our room.

Exiting Whitcliff Woods to a view of Richmond

Let me take this time to give you a run down of settling in. We toss our bags on the ground, take off our shoes, and flop onto the bed. Then muster energy to get up, make some English tea (which I have now acquired quite the taste for), and take a shower. Once refreshed, we do more walking around the town. It's funny because even though I tend to do a lot of walking around the towns, it doesn't seem the same as "doing the walk." Never mind I just walked 15 miles. That little "settling in" in the room seems to refresh me enough to get out and explore some more!

View of Richmond and surrounding
countryside from the castle

So here I am now just exploring the castle and the market before meeting Breanne for some Thai food! Lets see how English Thai compares to American! (note: it was different but still good) Just had a stroll down to the Grey Friars Tower, a part of a Franciscan monastery founded in 1258. The tower itself was built around 1500. History history!! Also, I just saw a bus full of kids with the driver blaring opera. Funny! Tomorrow: The big day!

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 10!

Day 11: Richmond to Ingleby Cross (July 4, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:21:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Park House, mile down the road from Ingleby Cross, at the base of the Cleveland Hills
Distance Walked: 24 Miles

HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!

I think Mountain Goat made it to Robin Hood's Bay today if everything went as planned for him. Three more days for us. Wow - three days. I've been so caught up in making the 24 mile trek that I haven't really thought that it is almost over.

So today: How do I feel? I'm hobbling around like a crotchety old 90 year old. (Quite a humorous picture I know) I successfully walked 24 miles, but my feet are really NOT happy with me right now. I will have to give them a good massage. I left the Emmanuel Guest House around 7:50 this morning to go meet up with Rob. I really think the guest house must get more business because of Steddy's misprint because in reality they are quite a distance from the square, where today's walk started. I must have put at least a half mile extra on the beginning of the walk. And then with the mile extra from Ingleby Cross - that's almost a marathon!

Looking back at Richmond castle in the early morning light

Anyway, I met Ron at his B & B and started off. Lucky him, his place was right at the start of the path. I'm glad we decided to walk this day together. Good moral support! So we started off to cross the infamous Vale of Mowbray, and I'll have to say I was feeling pretty good - then we somehow got turned around on a road and I'm glad he had a bigger map to get us back on track, because I probably would have gotten completely turned around on my own. Getting out of town, we descended to the river path and that's when the fun began. I decided to wear my tennis shoes because I wanted something light on the roads. What I didn't think about was that while yes, half of today's walk was going to be on tarmac, today's walk was 24 miles. That meant 12 miles on trail. And not just any trail. What I didn't think about - or know about - was that the paths we actually did walk on were like a slip n slide of mud. With all the recent rain, the trails had turned to complete muck, and I was skating all over the place. I actually did slip and fall on a hill. Thank goodness for my trekking pole or I would have slid down more than I did. I think I spent half my energy on trying to not fall and even those with hiking boots were having trouble. We ran into Crazy Hair and her group and one of them actually did fall down a slope. Those four women got such a bad wrap to start off with but they are really nice! They just have such a strange dynamic. But I think we are set to arrive in Robin Hood's Bay on the same day.

Humor was good on this long walk....
this rat on a stile gave us a good chuckle!

So we walked on and then at one point Crazy Hair, with very strong sureness, pointed us down a path. I was hesitant, but we went and we soon discovered our error when we ended up in a field of cows and a bull. We turned around to find they were turning around -thanks for telling us! We did come to the hamlet of Bolton-on-Swale and made a slight detour to see the monument of Henry Jenkins, a man who supposedly lived to be 169 years old. Except we never found it. I swear we followed that map to a 't,' but alas Henry Jenkins was nowhere to be found.

So the mix of mud and tarmac continued to Dansby Wiske - 14 miles in, 10 to go. All this while I was having a debate as to whether it was worth it for me to have worn tennis shoes of not. I tended to swing from one side to the other depending on what surface I was on, but I think in the end hiking boots won. After Dansby Wiske my pains started to kick in and at one point my right foot felt so painful, like it was in cramps, that I was almost in tears, and I could feel everything under my feet and just wished I had a sturdier boot. So even despite the tarmac - hiking shoes win. Ideally probably having both pairs, but if you only have one - pick the hiking shoe. You can always walk in the grass by the road. Because skating your way through muddy paths is not much fun. Humorous looking back now, but in the present, not so much. By the way, its been the rainiest June on record here. Just my luck! And England isn't known for the sunniest of weather anyhow. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice though. *crossing fingers*

Breaking for lunch with a Shrek
looking character in Dansby Wiske.

We reached Dansby Wiske around 2:00 and sat down for lunch. Crazy Hair and the gang coming in about 15 minutes behind. As we were finishing a huge shower came through and just as we had finished putting on our rain pants and coat, it stopped. However, I was defiant and continued to walk with my rain pants for awhile. It took enough effort to put them on! So on we trekked over the Vale of Mowbray, all the while the Cleveland Hills slowly getting more visible. The whole day you could always hear the faint noise of traffic, and I couldn't help but think how fast they could drive from Richmond to Ingleby and long a little every time a car drove past. But no, I came to walk across England and that's what I'm going to do! So onward I go!

Watch our for trains!

I'll have to say that really the scenery this day was not all that bad. Yes its farm fields, but really I do find the beauty in that. And today was pretty good weather so that might have helped. But really it's not bad. The whole point of doing the 24 miles in one go is to get this supposedly long, monotonous day over with, but I'd actually have to say that the bit from Shap to Kirkby Stephen was probably my least favorite part. And of any potential long day, I would recommend that be the one. Of course then you wouldn't be able to stop in that fabulous chocolate factory in Orton. Because I still think about that chocolate cake!

Fields, fields, and more fields...
with little arrows pointing the way!

Oh wow- I'm exhausted! So that was the basis of our day. Ron is great to walk with because we have conversation but we also are fine just being with ourselves. I like that. No obligation to have to carry a conversation. I left him in Ingleby Arncliff after an awful run across the motorway. This is the one spot on the walk where you encounter serious traffic. We waited and waited for an opening in the cars, and oh god- I didn't realize how tight my legs were, but when we took off across the road in a 'run,' my upper thigh just tensed up and HATED me. Wow - that was pain. After Arncliff I hobbled along past Ingleby Cross and my last mile to Park House where I got this second wind and actually felt like I could keep going. Probably the adrenaline kicking in at the realization that YES! I had made it! I had walked 24 miles across the Vale of Mowbray. I CAN DO IT!!

Looking back after a hard days walk - and another sheep herd!

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 11!

Day 12: Ingelby Cross to Clay Bank Top/Chop Gate (July 5, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:20:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: West Cote, Chop Gate (the best stay on the walk!)
Distance Walked: 12 miles

Looking back on the Vale of Mowbray
as it meets the Cleveland Hills

How do I feel? Pretty good today. It seems I walked through the soreness of last night. Always some kinks but overall I feel pretty good which is ideal for a 19 mile walk tomorrow. I'm going to get up early and try to get out of here by 8:00. Walking alone tomorrow. Ron offered for me to walk with his friend and him but they won't be getting off till 9:00 and I just want to go and not get in too late. I can walk with him for the last stretch. Today, Bre, Ron, and I started off around 9:00 and continued down the forest track and then up onto Scarth Wood Moor. Waking up today there was barely a cloud in the sky, and for most of our walk it continued to be pretty nice, although the clouds did keep creeping in throughout the day until it got to be quite windy and slightly raining by the end of it. One thing about walking all day, everyday, is I'm really starting to notice how the clouds move and able to see different types of weather systems approaching and retreating. There can be so much variety in a day, and being outdoors the whole time just makes it that much more noticeable. I'm so glad it was nice out though because it actually made going through the heather moors quite nice. It was kind of tough though going up to Scarth Wood moor and then back down again. Steddy made another mistake here on map 73 with the Cleveland Way sign and the stone marker - switching them up. He really must have been getting anxious around here!

Purple heather on the moor
I can't even imagine how amazing it would be to see it in full bloom!

Anyway up the moor, back down, through the forest, then up to Live Moor, back down and then up to Carlton Moor where the heather was actually starting to bloom purple and I got a little taste of how beautiful the heather could be when it was all out in full bloom. Then back down and a little rest at the Lord Stone's Cafe, this great little cafe built into the side of a hill. Very hobbitesque!

The Lord Stone's Cafe - built right into the hillside!

After a nice break for lunch with Ron buying drinks , he sure is a nice guy, we went on, hiking up again to Kirkby Bank. Something about walking uphill seems to bring out everyone because I just started running into all sorts of Coast to Coast walkers, including two women who I hadn't seen since Patterdale! But what goes up must go down and so we went on, only to go up again to Hasty Bank through these funky rock protrusions called Wain Stones that looked like funky birthday candles from Alice in Wonderland or something. And then finally down to Clay Bank Top where Judy, our host for the night picked us up. What nice people they are. Coming to pick us up, taking us to the pub and back for dinner, giving me a ride back to Clay Bank Top the next day. And just welcoming us in their home. I'll have to say that some of the cheaper places we've stayed have been my favorite, this one topping them all. They live on a farm that dates back to Elizabethan times, and Judy told us all about the history of the area and the people. It was great! Tonight at the pub we had a long wait...apparently Marianne, the cook, can be a bit finicky, showing up when she wants, taking time, so Judy informed us! I love little towns.

MORE PICTURES FROM DAY 12!

Day 13: Clay Bank Top to Glaisedale (July 6, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:19:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Beggars Bridge B&B, Glaisedale
Distance Walked: 19 Miles

Alone on the moors - my favorite photo I took this trip.
After the fog lifted I was greeted by this

Wow, only one more day to go. I feel really good too. I feel like my body has really adapted since the start of the walk. Gosh that really seems ages ago. Like a completely different time. Today I got up and it was just miserable outside, raining and extremely foggy. I had breakfast with Judy who was just so nice. We talked about history and she was telling me about the farm and surrounding area. I just think that some of the most accommodating places have been the cheapest. They said they started doing the B&B after having some German university students stay there for five months. They missed it so much they thought they'd open their doors to walkers. They were just so down home and friendly. Can you tell I liked this place a lot?!

But anyway, I started at about 8:00 and quickly ascended to the moor and the solitude of the foggy mist and my surroundings. I'll have to say that while incredibly eerie, I did really enjoy it. There's something about those times of just feeling all with yourself and no one or nothing else can sooth the soul and that's exactly what it was like for me. So on I walked, with an occasional sheep silently appearing and disappearing in the fog. Ron called just when I got service and we were going to try and meet but then my phone went out and we couldn't connect which actually was okay - I was enjoying being by myself. And I'll have to say my first half of the walk - the nine miles to the Lions Inn in Blakey, I was feeling really good! Loose and walking brisk. The fog even lifted enough for me to get some incredible views down into the valleys.

And then I reached the Lions Inn just like that - at about 11:20, right when the rain started to come and the wind really started to blow (it had been picking up steadily). The Lion's Inn is a 500 year old inn in what seemed to me to be in the middle of nowhere. Inside it is so cool. You really do feel like you have gone back in time 500 years when you walk in. Inside I had a cup of hot chocolate and just relaxed for awhile and soon, what do you know, walkers started showing up . Crazy hair and the gang, who actually are really nice the more you know them. I actually really enjoy their company. And Mary and Bruce (packhorse and her husband). And some others. Apparently Ron was outside but didn't come in, so I missed him and I ended up walking with Bruce and Mary - off into the wind down the road. As we were walking up the road, practically being blown backwards, I saw the packhorse van drive by, carrying Breanne. All nice and warm inside.....

A nice rest at the Lion's Inn

We actually did catch up to Ron and the four of us continued down the trail. After awhile my feet really started HATING me and I swear, the last three miles today were the longest three miles of my life. On and on and on. And it wasn't just me, everyone was thinking the same thing. It was like we were in a time warp or something! But we made it to Glaisdale and had a great dinner with Ron and the Crazy Hair gang. Kind of last night of our walk dinner. I've almost done it! Tomorrow is the last leg, to Robin Hood's Bay and the North Sea. I still have my stone to throw in :-)

A stuffed hiker and I hanging out in Glaisdale

Tonight we stayed at the Beggar's Bridge B&B which is located right by the famous Beggar's Bridge. This bridge is what's known as a packhorse bridge that was built in the early 1600's across the river Esk. The story behind the bridge is that a young man names Thomas Ferris was courting a lady named Agnes Richardson, the daughter of a local squire. Thomas was a poor man, therefore he could not realistically marry Agnes with approval, so he decided to make his fortune at sea. The night before he was set to set sail out of Whitby, he was going to meet Agnes. But the river Esk was flooding and he could not cross, so he set sail without saying goodbye. Upon his return, fortune made, he was appointed Mayor of Hull city and married Agnes. In 1619 he paid for the building of the bridge so others would not face the same problem he had encountered. How romantic!

NO MORE PHOTOS FOR TODAY...

Day 14: Glaisdale to Robin Hood's Bay (July 7,2007)

2008-05-15T11:18:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Boggle Hole Youth Hostel, Robin Hood's Bay
Distance Walked: 19 miles

FINISHED!!!!!!

How do I feel? How can words really express how I feel? Exhausted, happy, sad, relieved, reflective, exuberant, amazed. I've just completed something I've wanted to do for four years. And now its done. Is it anything like I expected? All of it and none of it at the same time. Who knew really what walking day after day, mile after mile, would be like? Who knew all the people I would run across and meet. The people whose paths in the universe I crossed for a short time. But we all went through it and we completed it and shared it. And now we will move on. It seems like ages ago when we started the walk. But I'm glad for it all . I'm glad for the weather and the scenery and the growth and the people. And the walk. All of it. And I toughed it out and completed it!

A happy walker on the last day

So today: Bre and I got up early and ate at 7:00 to get an early start to Grosmont to see the station and get Breanne her bus to Robin Hood's Bay. It started with a nice walk through Arncliffe Woods into Egton Bridge. It must have been the combination of it being the last day and needing to get Breanne there, but I was booking it! And I felt great! We made it to Grosmont with plenty of time to spare and were lucky enough to see a steam engine train. They used these trains and the station in the first Harry Potter movie! It was a sight to see. Then Bre's bus came and I waited for Ron and his friend Ted. They came along after I saw these guys who call themselves the Lost Boys because they get lost so much. Apparently one of their goals was to try 50 different pints of beer and they were on 45. We also saw all the regulars along the walk. Strange to think I'll probably never see them again after today.

They used this station and trains in the first Harry Potter movie!
The whistle was ear splitting though...

So anyway up and up and up out of Grosmont we went - I still had quite the energy amazingly. And then down to the incredibly cute little hamlet of Littlebeck and into the woods where the Hermitage was! I was for some reason very excited to see this carved out stone! Who would ever be crazy enough to carve that out? Above the door, carved in the stone it says "1790 G & C." G & C were nutty. As Ted said, maybe it was God and Christ. And then on and out of the woods for lunch and then up into the moors and to more bog. I'll have to say this whole time Whitby and the North Sea was always ever near, almost taunting me, and I can't quite understand why Wainwright ended in Robin Hood's Bay? [after making a day trip to Whitby, I now understand...the bustle and craziness of traffic was more than a little startling!]

The Hermitage - so neat... but why?!

We decided to take a road around the second bog, and while it was painful road walking, it was a good thing we did because when we rejoined the path the Lost Boys popped out with mud past their boots!! Then into the town of Hawkster where we lost the Lost Boys to a pub (still hadn't reached 50 beers yet) and down to the sea for a long 3 mile jaunt up the coast to Robin Hood's Bay.

Coming upon the North Sea!

I might add that today the weather was phenomenal. Partly cloudy, perfect temperature. And it was amazing because coming in there were showers all around but we evaded all of them! There was one little pitiful spurt of rain, almost like the weather gods were determined to not let us have a day without at least some rain, but really I couldn't ask for a better day to finish the walk.

When we got in to town, I had to pack the HUGE bag down to the coast and on to Boggle Hole Youth Hostel, which was a bit out from Robin Hood's Bay, because Packhorse doesn't deliver there. I just about buckled carrying it because of the weight - practically two pack fulls of stuff crammed into one pack. I could hear people mumbling about it as I past by. But we made it to the sea and Ron bought ice cream and I just sat there. I had made it. But I didn't really reflect till I made it to Boggle Hole and got changed and got Bre and went back into town.

Our first peek at Robin Hood's Bay
with the tide out

Ron and I enjoying our victory ice cream!

When we got back to town, we dipped our feet (I did a bit more than a dip), throw our stones that we had saved all the way back from St. Bees, and then I just sat and reflected. I had made it. Tonight we had dinner at the Bay Hotel with Ron and Ted and his wife and then said our goodbyes. I walked down to the sea, looking out into the evening air with the tide in and the calm sea. There was music playing in the background, and it was just the perfect way to end the two weeks of this walk. The calm and quiet and beauty of the North Sea. I said goodbye and turned down the path towards Boggle Hole. What an amazing adventure.

Dipping feet in the North Sea... we made it!

The Coast to Coast: Never forget the walk. The aches , the ups and downs. The stiles! The rain, the mud! The beautiful scenery - the Lakes, the farms, the moors, the woods, the seas.

The people: Mountain Goat, everyone in the Lake District, Ken and Jane, Ruth and Kimmi, Sue and Helen, Crazy Hair and the pack, Ron, the Lost Boys, Mary and Bruce and all the others we encountered on the walk.

The sun sets on Robin Hood's Bay
192 plus miles complete

MORE PHOTOS FROM DAY 14!

Day 15: Excursion to Whitby (July 8, 2007)

2008-05-15T11:17:00.000-07:00

Subdued looking Coty with Whitby Abbey looming behind

Looking over the historic town of Whitby

We had an extra couple of days before heading back to the good ole' USA, so today we decided to take a day trip to Whitby, home of the famous Whitby Abbey. Taking the bus from Robin Hood's Bay, we arrived in Whitby to bustle, noise, and a lot of chaos after the overall quiet jaunt across England! But if you have an extra day, I would highly recommend visiting the town, especially after it taunts you the entire day while walking to Robin Hood's Bay!

The busyness (and very touristy) streets were
a bit of a shock to the system, but fun nevertheless!

Whitby Abbey was originally founded in 657 and is now a benedictine ruin due in large part to Henry VIII (once again!).... But to read the full history, you can go here. Next to the abbey is also St. Mary's church and it's adjacent graveyard. Both the Abbey and the church/graveyard appeared in the original Dracula film. In fact, in the book, Dracula first makes his appearance in England in the form of a black dog in this graveyard!

Ominous indeed.....

For a moment or two I could see nothing, as the shadow of a cloud obscured St. Mary's Church. Then as the cloud passed I could see the ruins of the Abbey coming into view; and as the edge of a narrow band of light as sharp as a sword-cut moved along, the church and churchyard became gradually visible... It seemed to me as though something dark stood behind the seat where the white figure shone, and bent over it. What it was, whether man or beast, I could not tell.
- excerpt from Dracula

EXTRA GOODIES!!

2008-05-15T11:16:00.000-07:00

Humor, randomness, and good advice!

A sign in Manchester... I still don't get it!

Look closely at the sticker on the window

Why did the chicken cross the road?

To get to the other side!

For all us foreign tourists... (in Whitby)

One of the many "black bull" pubs we saw
This one in Reeth caught our eye in particular...
can you spot why?

More photos: Day 0 (getting there)

2008-05-15T11:15:00.000-07:00

sleepy time on plane

Not so sleepy time on plane

The legend of St. Bega

We couldn't find a garbage anywhere in St. Bees... Bre wasn't as pleased as I was with this photo....

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More photos: Day 1 (St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge)

2008-05-15T11:14:00.000-07:00

Up, up, up Dent Hill we go!

Help I'm stuck! It's too small!

(Statue decicated to Wainwright, found of C2C)

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More photos: Day 2 (Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite)

2008-05-15T11:13:00.000-07:00

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More photos: Day 3 (Stonethwaite to Grasmere)

2008-05-15T11:12:00.000-07:00

A day for many little waterfalls!

Enjoying coffee (hot chocolate for me!) in Grasmere

Our youth hostel in Grasmere... very cool!

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more photos: Day 4 (Grasmere to Patterdale)

2008-05-15T11:11:00.000-07:00

Sunny Patterdale with lots of green grass and sheep

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more photos: day 5 (Patterdale to Shap)

2008-05-15T11:10:00.000-07:00

Looking back on the sheep farms in Patterdale

The deer bounding up the hillside

Posing in the rain with Hayeswater Resevoir in background

Frank and the gang heading up and up

Last look at the Lake District before leaving it behind

And on into the fields....

Approaching Shap Abbey

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more photos: Day 6 (Shap to Orton)

2008-05-15T11:09:00.000-07:00

No More Photos for this Day.....

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more photos: Day 7 (Orton to Kirkby Stephen)

2008-05-15T11:08:00.000-07:00

Our B&B, the Redmayne House

Other view of church

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more photos: Day 8 (Kirkby Stephen to Keld/Muker

2008-05-15T11:07:00.000-07:00

On last look on Kirkby Stephen

If you look real close, you can see Nine Standards
on the horizon

Getting closer...

And closer.....

People vs. Nine Standards...who's who?

Proof of rain... water brown with mud

Entering Muker

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more photos: Day 9 (Muker/Keld to Reeth)

2008-05-15T11:06:00.000-07:00

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more photos: Day 10 (Reeth to Richmond)

2008-05-15T11:04:00.000-07:00

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More photos: Day 11 (Richmond to Ingleby Cross)

2008-05-15T11:03:00.000-07:00

Whoo hoo... one more photo of fields and
VERY muddy trail!

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More photos: Day 12 (Ingelby Cross to Clay Bank Top/Chop Gate

2008-05-15T11:02:00.000-07:00

A couple more photos of the Vale of Mowbray
meeting the Cleveland Hills

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more photos: Day 13 (clay bank top to Glaisedale)

2008-05-15T11:01:00.000-07:00

No More photos today...

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more photos: Day 14 ( Glaisedale to Robin Hood's Bay)

2008-05-15T11:00:00.002-07:00

Whitby and the North Sea ever taunting us
from a distance

Signing the Coast to Coast completion book!

Trying again...

And again..

Little room, big mess

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